Stone & Brick Sealers

How long does Extreme Climate Last?

It depends on the condition of your stonework or brickwork and prevailing wind direction but typically 5 to 10 years.

Will "Extreme Climate" leave a sheen finish or darken my stonework?

No, it is completely invisible when dried in. If in doubt, apply to a small discreet test area before proceeding to full application.

I have damp patches appearing on the internal plaster of an exposed outside wall, always following prolonged periods of heavy rain, what do you recommend to stop this?

Firstly you should to try to identify how the water is drawing through, so firstly eliminate the following:

1. ls the pointing in good condition? If there are cracks or crumbling! missing pointing this should be "made good" ideally mixing Kingfisher "Pointing Solution" into your repair mortar mix.
2. Are there any decayed fixings (e.g. for TV aerials / Satellite dishes) which may be providing a conduit for water?
3. Are there any leaking gutters or down pipes which are feeding water into the wall?
4. Are there any disused leaking chimneys (Cement "Caps" often leak)?
5. Are the window frames well sealed to the stone or brick reveals?

Having eliminated the above you can reasonably conclude that the wall is absorbing water and therefore the bricks, mortar or even stonework must be porous in places. An application of one of our specialist water repellents such as "Extreme Climate" will stop this process by forcing the water to "bead up" on the surface and run off without penetrating.

What causes masonry to become porous?

Penetrating damp is normally (but not always) a gradual process which occurs when external walls have been exposed to the weather for many years. This typically leads to a "breaking down" of the masonry caused by moisture absorption. This is exacerbated by the winter freeze/thaw cycle which causes cracks, which then provide further pathways for water ingress, which also freeze causing......well I'm sure you get the picture! It can happen in bricks or various stone types including sand stone and most commonly in the mortar joints.

You seem to recommend the solvent based "Extreme CIimate" and "Superseal" products ahead of the water based "Storm seaI". Why is that?

Solvent-bome water repellents achieve deeper and more permanent substrate penetration and typically last 4 to 5 times longer than water based. Their only draw back is that they cannot be applied to a damp surface or if rain is expected within 3 hours of applition.

My outside wall is suffering from penetrating damp but your "Extreme Climate" has to be applied to a dry surface in dry conditions which we are not getting in the current wet weather, what do you suggest?

In winter when some brick and stonework never seems to dry out "Storm Seal" can be used as a short term "fix". "Storm Seal" has to be applied to a damp surface to work effectively and it will quickly form an effective moisture barrier which should resolve the problem for at least 12 to 18 months.

I applied "Storm SeaI" last winter and now I want to put something on the wall which will last longer, is it alright to apply "Superseal" or "Extreme Climate" over the top of it?

Yes, "Superseal" and "Extreme Climate" are fully compatible with "Storm Seal" so you can apply them any time conditions permit.

My home is faced with limestone and suffers in places from penetrating damp. I have been told that water repellents can darken limestone, is this correct?

Yes, "Superseal" which is based on Polyoxo saluminium stearate chemistry would darken limestone so we always recommend our silicone (siloxane) water repellent as it does not affect the colour of limestone at all.

What is the difference between "Superseal" and "Extreme Climate"?

"Superseal" which is based on Polyoxo saluminium stearate chemistry was the industry standard for premium grade waterseal for over a decade until "Extreme Climate" me out "Extreme Climate" uses the latest fluorocarbon chemistry which works at a molecular level to form an invisible film which uses water to "bead up" very tightly on most porous substrates. Superseal requires 2 x coats whereas EC needs only one coat so you use half as much and obviously save the labour cost of applying a second coat

At our Village Hall we have a wall one metre high by 60m long it has slate slabs on top. At every slate joint moisture runs down the wall and a black mould or fungus grows. We plan to power wash it but seek a sprayable product to stop the discolouration or give longer time between cleaning treatments. Can you help?

We are always cautious about saying we can definitely offer a solution but I suspect the problem is that a particular mould or fungal growth has embedded itself in the surface substrate and merely washing it will not eradicate the problem. This is simply because microscopic spores and tiny portions of algal! fungal growth remain on the surface after the washing process and simply re-grow. So:

1. Pressure wash it all again just as you have done before.
2. After it is dry, spray it (using ordinary garden sprayer) thoroughly with our "Biocidal Wash" moss and mould killer. This hard surface biocide R)/desiignaed specifically to kill moss, mould and lichens and will neutralise the surface. Be sure to get right up under the coping slab overhang.
3. Treat the coping slabs and joints with Kingfisher "Extreme Climate" Water seal. The purpose of this is to reduce the amount of water absorbed by the slate and especially the mortar joints.... Moss and Mould need a moisture source and EC deprives it of that I can't make out from the picture if the wall is pebble dashed with a quartz finish or if it is painted. If it is quartz dash with no painted finish, apply the "Extreme Climate" to a small, discreet test area and check that when dry it does not significantly affect the colour (Very unlikely) then proceed to full application. If it is painted, you will need to let me know and we will make up a "Weatherflex Anti-mould paint" for you.